Turtle Care

Turtles are in the chelonian family. There are several types of turtles available as pets, box turtles, aquatic turtles and tortoises. Each requires individual care specific to the species. Diet, temperature, and humidity are probably the most misunderstood requirements when caring for your turtle. The following information is taken from "Reptile Medicine and Surgery", by Doug Mader, one of the leading veterinarians specializing in Reptile and Amphibian care.

Captive Care

Lighting

Sunlight is by far the best source for ultraviolet (UV) light and should be provided whenever practical. Unfortunately, most of the UV rays are filtered through glass and plastic, so animals housed indoors need additional lighting. There are broad-spectrum lights commercially available, and they have been proven to stimulate appetite and basking for many turtles. Please keep in mind that these lights eventually lose their UV value and should be replaced every four months.

Temperature

Turtles are heliotherms, which means they seek sunlight for heat. Normal temperature for a box turtle or tortoise is 26-38(C (79-100(F) and 25-35(C (77-95(F) for aquatic and semi-aquatic turtles. Basking areas can be provided by various incandescent light bulbs with reflector hoods directed at specific areas of the cage. In addition, a heating pad may be placed under the cage in the basking area. Incandescent bulbs that are 50-100 watts work well, as do 200 watt infrared lights. The heat source should be no less than 18 inches from the animal because shell burns may result. If needed, water for aquatic turtles may be heated with submersible aquarium heaters. Avoid using glass thermometers in the water, as the turtle may eat it.

Predators

The major threat to captive turtles is dogs. Dogs are fond of chewing on shells and appendages. In the United States, it is quite common for opossums and raccoons to enter yards at night and prey on turtles. Most attacks are not fatal, but many result in permanent shell damage and limb amputation. It is a good idea to have screened outdoor cages to prevent such mishaps.

Box Turtles

Box turtles are the most common reptile pet in the United States. With proper care, they can live 30-40 years in captivity. Unfortunately, they are also perhaps the most neglected reptile in captivity because most people just do not know how to care for them properly.

Nutrition

Adult box turtles are opportunistic omnivores; youngsters are primarily carnivores. Adults eat a wide variety of foods including land snails, beetles, sowbugs, millipedes, slugs, earthworms, spiders, small mammals, crayfish, frogs, salamanders, lizards, snakes, smaller turtles, and plant material and fruits such as mushrooms, strawberries, raspberries, mulberries, and tomatoes.

Adult turtles should be fed three or more times weekly, and juveniles fed daily. The diet should consist of 50% animal or high-protein foods, and 50% Plants (25% fruits and 75% vegetables). For every feeding, dust food with calcium lactate, carbonate, or gluconate. Every 1-2 weeks, dust food with a multivitamin. Be aware that supplements containing large amounts of vitamin D should be restricted to only 5% of the total diet. All of the supplements are available at most pet stores.

Housing

For most box turtles, a 20 gallon aquarium works well. The bigger the cage, the better. The bottom of the cage can be filled with newspaper, indoor-outdoor carpeting, straw, hay, wood chips mixed with peat moss, or alfalfa pellets. The latter four substrates are good because turtles like to burrow. These substrates should be changed every few months, and feces should be scooped out an a weekly basis. A "hide box" that the turtle can get under and out of sight is important. Many turtles prefer to sleep in them. Items such as gravel, sand, kitty litter, crushed walnut shells, and potting soil should be avoided. If these items are ingested, intestinal blockage can occur.

The cage temperature should not be colder than 21(C (70(F) at night, and gradually warmed to 27-30(C (80-86(F) during he day. If you have a basking area set up, the lights should be tuned off at night, but not the heating pad, which should not cover more than one-half the cage.

An easy-to-clean shallow water dish, large enough for the turtle to get into and out of easily, should always be available. Water depth should be no deeper than the turtle's chin, because box turtles cannot swim and will drown if submerged. Turtles prefer to defecate in their water bowl, so it should be routinely cleaned. Constipation can often result if turtle is not allowed to soak at least three times per week.

In warmer climates, box turtles do well outdoors in a back yard or fenced enclosure. The enclosure should have some shade so that turtles can escape the hot sun when needed. Since box turtles are accomplished burrowers, seal under fence borders with bricks or rocks or bury the fencing 8-12 inches. They can also climb over fencing less than 12 inches high. Turtles should be brought indoors if the temperature drops into the low 60s.

Hibernation

It is not uncommon for a box turtle to hibernate up to six months per year. Although if the conditions stay warm and it is light for 12-14 hours some turtles will skip this hibernation period. When hibernation begins in the early fall, most turtles will stop eating. Sick, convalescent, or underweight turtles should be kept warm and not allowed to hibernate.

As soon as the appetite of the turtle decreases, withhold food but not water, thus clearing its digestive tract of any remaining food. Once the turtle begins hibernation, its metabolism, as well as digestion, dramatically slows down and any remaining food will decay and could cause disease. At this point, remove any heat lamps and allow the turtle to acclimate to room temperature (16-21(C [60-70(F]). After a week at room temperature, the turtle should be ready for hibernation.

For indoor hibernation, select a dimly lit, draft free, dry area that can be kept between 7-16(C (45-60(F) for the winter, such as a basement, garage, back porch, crawl space, wine cellar, or closet. Temperatures should stay between 10-16(C (50-60(F). Persistent temperatures above 16(C (60(F) are too high for hibernation and will increase the turtle's metabolism so that it will slowly starve. One should be careful not to let temperatures fall below 7(C (45(F). Although turtles in hibernation are freeze-tolerant, it can be detrimental to hibernate a turtle in temperatures that low.

The turtles should be hibernated in a large box crate, cooler, or aquarium with at least 12 inches of slightly humid peat-moss potting soil. This should be covered with 3-4 inches of newspaper or pesticide-free leaves. The turtle will burrow itself into the soil to hibernate. The soil should be humid but not flooded so that the turtle does not dehydrate. The turtle should be removed from the soil every 2-3 weeks and allowed to soak in luke warm water for two hours.

Outdoor hibernation is a little more difficult and dangerous. The selected area should have 2-3 feet of loose soil as a base with good drainage. The turtle will burrow in and try to stay below the frost line. An additional layer of leaves or hay should be spread over the site for additional protection. The turtle should emerge 5-6 months later in the spring.

Taking proper care of your turtle or tortoise will give you a loving companion for many years to come. We have a couple of patients that are in excess of 25 years of age. A happy and healthy turtle or tortoise can give years of pleasure to you, your children, and your children's children. Remember, if you have any question at all about the health of your pet, please call your veterinarian and set up an appointment. Prevention is the best measure.