Basic Iguana Care

Iguanas are probably the most popular reptile pet. They are readily available and relatively inexpensive. They are regularly imported for Central and South America, but more and more domestic iguana farms are emerging. Iguanas can live in captivity for 15 years or more and can reach sizes of 6 feet for males and 4 feet for females. One should be prepared to own a large pet prior to purchasing the iguana. The information in this paper was taken from Reptile Medicine and Surgery, by Doug Mader DVM, and "The Greening of America", by Margaret A. Wissman DVM.

Housing

The most popular cage for an iguana is the glass aquarium, which is great for a hatchling. It is very easy to control temperature and humidity in a glass tank. Unfortunately, most iguanas outgrow these aquariums within a few months. There are various types of cages commercially available in stores and catalogs, but most people construct their own. It is recommended that a book about care and housing be purchased to provide appropriate dimensions and cage construction. The cage should be tall to allow the iguana to climb. It should be two times the length of the iguana, and as deep as the iguana is long. The cage bottom should be lined with an absorbent substrate. Examples are orchid bark, alfalfa rabbit pellets, plastic turf, pine shavings, or indoor/outdoor carpeting. Items to avoid are corn cob, gavel, crushed walnut shell, freyable carpet, sand, and cedar shavings. These items can cause gastrointestinal impaction and the cedar shaving are toxic. Some iguanas defecate in the same place every time, which makes clean-up simple. Others prefer their water bowl or a bathtub which is even easier to clean and is also healthy for the iguana. Branches and basking areas should be provided. A hide box is also a good idea so the iguana can get out of sight and feel safe and secure. Live plants may be used to provide a more natural setting. Iguanas are herbivores, so make sure to choose non-toxic plants. Do not use artificial plants because the iguana does not know real from fake and will try to taste them.

Temperature

Temperature regulation is important for digestion, growth, reproduction, healing, and for proper functioning of the immune system. Iguanas will regulate themselves by more toward and away from heat sources. It id best to provide your iguana with a full spectrum, incandescent light bulb for basking. Items such as "hotrocks" or other similar floor heaters are not the best choices because of risk of burns. The light should be close enough so that the iguana can bask in the heat, but the lizard should never have access to the light. Temperatures should vary in the cage from 80(F in the cool area of the cage, to 98.6(F in the basking area of the cage. Infrared lamps are available to emit heat, but not light. All lights should be on a 12 hour on/off schedule. Iguanas should also have ultraviolet light to aid in the proper absorption of calcium. Purchase a fluorescent light designed for reptiles. Place it in the cage so that the light is not filtered through glass, plastic, or tight weave screen. Lights should be on a 12 hour on/off light cycle. The best source of heat and ultraviolet light is the sun. Iguanas should be permitted supervised sun basking for several hours per week. Once in the sun, the lizards become "energized" and can quickly and easily run or climb away. Please supervise your iguana.

Diet

IGUANAS ARE VEGETARIANS!!! In the past, iguanas have been known to eat just about anything. Insects, people food, and other non-iguana items should be strictly forbidden. Iguanas a primarily folivores, meaning they eat leaves and foliage. Approximately 50-60% of the diet should consist of dark green leafy vegetables. These include items such as parsley, alfalfa pellets, collard greens, mustard greens, and bok choy. Items such as spinach and beet greens decrease the absorption of calcium, and should be offered occasionally. Items such as broccoli, kale, brussels sprouts, cabbage, and cauliflower bind with iodine and should be offered sparingly. Approximately 30-40% of the diet should be non-leafy vegetables. This includes frozen mixed veggies, sprouts, carrots, cooked potato peppers, beans, corn, peas, and green beans. Fruits should only make up 10-15% of the diet. Fruits such as mango, banana, apples, strawberries, kiwis, papayas, guavas, peaches, and pears can be fed. In addition, there are commercially prepared iguana foods which can be fed with the fruits and vegetables. It is very important for the food to be supplemented with vitamins and minerals. Food should be powdered with a calcium powder with each meal, and a multivitamin powder once weekly.

Parasites and Zoonotic Diseases

Iguanas are natural hosts of a bacteria called Salmonella, which is very dangerous in immunosuppressed people. We routinely associate Salmonella with uncooked chicken and dirty counter-tops, but not really with animals. It can be transmitted by handling the pet, or by cleaning food and water dished near human food or food areas. The best prevention is awareness. Wash hands thoroughly after handling the iguana, cleaning the cage, or changing food. Thoroughly disinfect bathtubs where the iguana is soaked, and do not clean food dishes in kitchen near human food sources. Do not let children handle the iguana until they can fully understand the hygiene necessities. Most antibacterial soaps will kill the Salmonella. Cages and bowls should be cleaned with a mixture of 1/2 cup bleach to one gallon of water, then rinsed very well. This is also the formula for cleaning bath tubs and sinks. Internal parasites such as pinworms and roundworms are not transmissible to humans, but should be treated. A fecal examination should be conducted to determine if parasites are present.